There is no more influential arbiter of the value and quality of Washington wines -- at least as far as the world at large is concerned -- than the bimonthly newsletter called Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.
Last month, I had the pleasure of tasting with Dr. Jay Miller, the newsletter's designated Washington reviewer, in the middle of his two-week visit to this state.
Based on his enthusiastic comments at K Vintners, where we tasted 2006 and 2007 wines from the barrel, along with a number of releases from the 2005 vintage, I would be very surprised if his overall report were not at least as positive as last year's. At a subsequent dinner, Miller made it clear once again that he had found much to like.
Among other things, Miller remarked that he ranks Washington, the southern Rhone, Priorat in Catalonia, Spain and Australia as the best places in the world to grow grenache.
Grenache, which had all but disappeared from Washington vineyards a decade ago, seems certain to come roaring back on the tailwind of such praise. Miller said the complete Washington reviews are scheduled to be published at the end of June.
In my Jan. 9 column, I reported on Pacific Rim, the new riesling-focused project funded by Bonny Doon's Randall Grahm. As pleasing as the first releases were, the newest lineup, just out, not only raises the bar for the brand, but for every riesling producer in the country.
What winemaker Nicolas Quillé has done is without precedent. Working with a brand-new, barely finished winemaking facility (in West Richland) and with grapes from vineyards with which he has had hardly any experience, Quillé has crafted a set of unique, individual and (in some instances) biodynamic single-vineyard wines.
If you agree with those who rank the riesling grape as one of the greatest in the world -- some would argue the greatest -- then the prices for these wines, though ambitious by local standards, are really not out of line.
The truth is that it is far more difficult to make a great white wine than to make a passably good red wine. Yet, the red wines generally command far higher prices. If you want to taste the future of Washington riesling, then seek out these wines.
* Pacific Rim 2007 Wallula Vineyard Biodynamic Riesling ($30). This vineyard has been Demeter-certified biodynamic, one of just a handful in Washington to achieve that recognition. It's all natural, ripe and full-flavored, with a wonderful, mouthfilling intensity. The flavors are a lovely mix of stone, yeast, flower and a jumble of citrus and apple fruits. The finish goes on forever.
* Pacific Rim 2007 Solstice Vineyard Riesling ($30). This Yakima Valley vineyard was planted in 1972, making these some of the oldest riesling vines in Washington. The wine is finished at 1.2 percent residual sugar, but tastes bone dry.
It's succulent and juicy, with floral aromas, stone fruits and hints of honeysuckle. Concentrated and dense, it is both bracing and long. The bottle was retasted on the second and third days after being opened, and retained its crispness and vitality beautifully.
* Pacific Rim 2007 Wallula Vineyard Riesling ($18). From the same biodynamic Wallula vineyard grapes comes this dry, leesy, chewy riesling, packed with lime and citrus flavors. The fruit was hand-picked and biodynamically grown, though not biodynamically vinified (hence the price difference). Tart and juicy, the wine brings a mouthful of peach and stone fruits, with marvelous minerality and texture.
* Paul Gregutt can be reached at wine@seattletimes.com.
Pick of the Week
* Calina 2007 Reserva Chardonnay, $8.
* Calina 2006 Reserva Merlot, $8.
Though I cringe at the term reserva, both of these Chilean wines deliver fine flavors for your $8 investment. The chardonnay comes from the maritime Casablanca region, and is a juicy, fruit-driven delight. The merlot neatly sidesteps the green and herbaceous flavors that often crop up in cheap Chilean reds, offering substantial, clean, plummy fruit and even a whiff of chocolate.
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